From “Checkpoint Charlie” in Berlin

Berlin brought me close, once again, to the history of both the Nazis and the Soviets. But this city, as Germany’s new capital, is a modern miracle! I fell in love with it and will return. I spent four days sightseeing as a tourist before my Berlin conference began.

The wonders of the city include many modern buildings that are architecturally striking – like the home of the Berlin Philharmonic – one of the top three orchestras in the world. (The other two are Vienna and Cleveland.) And the Holocaust Museum, designed by the architect who will design the new World Trade Center.

Other memorable sites include “Checkpoint Charlie” – the American entry point into East Berlin when a wall separated the city. This spot is a favorite of American tourists. And the beautiful Brandenburg Gate, another spot where tourists flock because it represents the united city – divided for so long.

My conference here was designed to reflect upon the developments (and the decline) of Catholicism in the U.S. and in Germany. Funded by a German businessman, we heard from many experts from both countries and had rich discussions among ourselves.

Among the U.S. participants were Rev. Andrew Greeley, famous as a sociologist and a novelist, and Peter and Peggy Steinfels who are well-known journalists in the U.S. I served as Chair of a session that discussed the issue of “Women in the Catholic Church”.

We absorbed statistics along with much analysis. Strangely absent was any systematic discussion of the role of media in the changing culture of both countries. But one elderly German country pastor had it right. He said three things changed his parish: the car; the pill; and TV. This project will continue as Germans try to capture some of the energy of the U.S. Catholic Church.

Now I’m in Ireland for two months of quiet reflection and study. From my residence I can see Galway Bay in the distance – the western edge of Ireland. This week we’re celebrating the 100th anniversary of the day (June 16th) when James Joyce met Nora – the woman who was to be at his side as he became, as the author of Ulysses, the most famous Irishman in the world.